We bought it and got to work.

After fixing some standard 7.3 leaks, a few sensors, up pipes and a few other things, the teardown started. First, decal removal. The unit was stored under and awning which protected the passenger side, the drivers side and rear were exposed to the sun most of the day and were very difficult to remove. I tried 3 of the removal disks-3MWhizzy Wheel, and these cheaper ones by AES. For the money I felt the AES ones worked the best. This process took over 25 hours…. I removed the horns and light bars then got going on gutting the inside, full gut:

Crazy amount of wires

Fiberglass Batt insulation in the walls, no damage of any sort after 16 years…

This unit was clearly #1537

Opened up the Passthrough

Just one of the piles of wire removed:

We plan to sleep side to side so we need to cut the outer compartments back:

On to insulation.

I used a combination of spray foam (I used Tiger Foam, 600 board ft kit) and Thinsulate. On the camper side of the compartments I had to fur out with 1×1 AL to screw my finished surfaces to and give myself a guide to cut the excess spray foam. I didn’t try to get every little bit of foam, I was fine with “about” an inch at the bump ins and 1.5 inches on the walls.

Here you can see the 1×1 used as fir strips:

You can also see the CR Laurance window I installed here. It’s fine but I wish I went with an awning window of some sorts so it can be left open in bad weather.

For the studs on the walls I drilled and used closed cell foam in a can. I went slow so the foam had access to air for curing. I still had a few spots that ooozed foam when I attached my cabinets.

I had sprayed foam from a kit like this before in my Sprinter.  Much much easier in the ambo.  I think one of the keys is to follow the directions closely.  You must shake the bottles of foam and have them and the surface to be sprayed at a certain temperature.  I set the bottles in front of a electric space heater inside the camper for over an hour shaking every 15 min or so.   Tape off what you don’t want foam on and spray away.  Cover every inch of your body or you’ll be pulling hair out.

All trimmed up:

I used Thinsulate at the front and back where there are lots of wires. The top will get a combo of more spray foam and some Thinsulate when the pop top goes in.

The roof of the cab got a pretty standard Noico and Thinsulate treatment:

I also stuffed Thinsulate in the A pillar and every other area I had access to.

Noise control:

The spray foam and Thinsulate do a good job of controlling sound on the walls and ceiling. The floor is a different matter. In the cab portion I cleaned it up and rolled on Noxudol 3101. The soundproofing company by me swears by this stuff. I can’t tell you if it works better than the Noico or not, but it is easy to install. 

Hard to see but with the Noxudol brushed on:

The floor of the ambo box is just 1 inch thick plywood with a very thin AL skin on the bottom (weather side). After I pulled up the old vinyl, I rolled out 1 layer of closed cell foam and 2 layers of MVL on top of that. The MVL sure does soak up the sound.

I covered that with 1/2 inch plywood. My finish floor will go on top of this. The wheel wells had sound deadener on them but I put another layer of foam and MVL.

The dog house is a big area for noise with the 7.3. Other that the thin fiberglass insulation for heat, this is all the sound deadening it had:

 I painted on a few layers of Noxudol then a layer of MVL. Then installed the stock fiberglass shield followed by DEI Floor & Tunnel Shield. It is HEAVY but wow did it knock down the noise.